Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Silk Shirt using Three Patterns

A luscious piece of  Mood Fabrics' Silk Crepe de Chine

has been sitting on my cutting table just waiting to be made into a new top for me.  I really struggled to find a pattern I wanted to make.  I wanted it loose but not too loose, that doesn't look good on me.  I spent several days...
looking and 
                                                                            and looking 
through my pattern stash.

Monday, June 24, 2013

City Sampler Sewalong Blocks 10, 11 and 12

Back on track and really a week ahead!  ha ha

Here they are (not the clearest pictures but D for Done)
Block 10

Block 12

Block 11

All three for this set

Other sewing - I have finished a blouse from a silk from Mood Fabrics.  Helping daughter with a quilt sample and anxiously awaiting the return of my serger.  Hoping it will be this week, just in time for me to go on vacation!  Ha!

Sunday, June 23, 2013

City Sample Sewalong Blocks 13, 14 and 15

You can look at this two ways - I am a week behind or a week ahead.  Meredith and I are sharing the book and I just started making blocks where the book was open.  I was suppose to make blocks 10, 11 and 12.  I made 13. 14 and 15!

Block 13
Block 14

Block 15
Now to go back to 10, 11 and 12 - too funny!

Saturday, June 22, 2013

McCall's 6566

Description: Loose-fitting, pullover tops have cap sleeves and narrow hems. A: contrast front overlay. B: optional pocket. C:contrast lower back. D: princess seams

Sizes: XS to XXL, started with a medium but made several changes

Changes:  I had to seam the back due to lack of fabric.  I also added a center back seam, stitching in at the waist for more of a fitted look
I also took some in at the side seams.  Then I made the back a low hem for the high-low look.

Fabric:  A silky from Joann's (last year)

Conclusion:  A fun, comfy top for summer and an easy project.

After I see the pictures, not sure I love it.  This was a test before cutting into some nice Mood silk.  I think I am going to keep looking for a pattern.  What is your opionions?

It might be the sleeves are too much.

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Spring Pink Coat

A tailoring project for my next Mood Sewing Network project, that has been a long time coming.  The fabric was moved all around my sewing room, just waiting to be made into a fabulous spring coat.  What fabric did I select?  This fabulous Mood Fabrics' Marc Jacobs linen-cotton

I knew right when I purchased this fabric is was going to be a coat, Vogue 8884, in fact.
source Vogue Patterns

 The fabric seems to yell, "good-bye winter, hello, spring."  Or in my case with the Summer solstice approaching, "good-bye spring and hello summer!"  Whichever one you say, this fabric is fabulous to work with and tailor into a coat

My first step for this jacket was cutting out the fabric in a single layer, very important with the design.  I wanted to match all the key parts.  This took some time but if I had not done this, I would have been very disappointed in my outcome.  I followed many steps from a tailoring book and used Karen's e-book for bound buttonholes (fabulous resource) and an Colette Pattern's tutorial  (coat progress links found here and here and here and lastly here)

The plan was the longer view on the Vogue pattern but my daughter, Meredith and I decided that it was just a bit too much coat.  This was a good decision, the length is perfect for a spring jacket.

I applied interfacing to each piece for underlining, as the fabric is a loose weave.  Do take care when moving the pieces before you apply the interfacing.  I would move the piece to the ironing board, lay the pattern piece over the fabric to make sure there was not stretch.  Then I applied the interfacing.  

With this project, I enjoyed each step and realized the importance of back stays,  horsehair canvas for the shoulder area, roll line.  My husband would come into my sewing room and I would tell him, "look at this step, see I matched the arm seam so nicely."  He would respond,"oh,yes" and hurry out of the room before I kept going on and on.

My only moment of panic, the lining.  I had some off-white bemberg in my stash but it was too transparent and not a good look for the coat.  I went to my fabric stash and had just ordered Mood Fabrics' Aquamarine Solid Silk Crepe De Chine, oh the feel of this fabric.   

I was thrilled having this on my shelf and it was a perfect contrast for the pink. 
I added piping to the facing and this is such an easy step with great impact, I will use this all the time with jackets.

One picture with the jacket unbuttoned

Here is one more picture, hands on my hips and my big smile, I love this jacket!

Thank you all for the kind comments during the construction phase, I really appreciate the comments and the encouragement.  For those of you new to tailoring, I highly recommend the book from my first post, I learned so much this go round with a tailored garment. I am more of a visual learner and the pictures are plentiful and helpful.

Sunday, June 16, 2013

City Sampler Sewalong Block 7,8 and 9

Time for the posting of my latest blocks for the sewalong

All three blocks together:

Block 7

Block 8

Block 9

These are fun to make and give me something to sew, the serger is still in the shop.  It was suppose to be ready on the 13th.  I called and they said, sorry it has one machine before your machine and then it will be your turn.  I am so ready to have my serger back.

Saturday, June 15, 2013

Spring Coat - Progress Report 4

This is the last progress report, if you missed the previous ones - one and two and three

Today's post is just some finishing details, like the back of the bound buttonhole on the facing.  I used fusible interfacing to stitch this and fused it to the wrong side.  Works wonderfully.

The final detail, piping at the front facing.  I have seen this on many tailored jackets out in the blog world and it is such a nice detail.  Well, I don't know what I have been waiting for, this was easy to do and the impact is huge (at least I think)

Tomorrow, I will take pictures in my new jacket, might need an umbrella according to the forecast.  Then on Monday, head over to Mood Sewing Network to see the jacket.

Thanks for all your comments on the progress of this jacket.  I am thankful for the Tailoring book, it was full of pictures and I really felt like I understood so much more during this jacket construction.

Monday, June 10, 2013

Spring Coat - Progress Report 3

I have been working on Vogue 8884 and blogging about my progress and tailoring steps.  Check out Progress Report 1 and Progress Report 2 if you have missed these.

It starts with the roll line, I used some stiffer fusible interfacing for this step.

I carefully pinned the back seam and stitched it into place, thanks to my walking foot it matches nicely.

The back is complete, so it was time to add the back stay.  I used the completed back piece for my pattern guide, since this garment has a back yoke.  According to the Tailoring book, I drew a line 8" down the center neckline then curved it to 3" below the underarm.  I used muslin for the back stay.

Following The Classice Guide To Sewing the Perfect Jacket Tailoring  I cut seam tape the length of the front section and stitched in the middle.

Shoulder seams, check!  Now time for the side seams, which have the inset side pockets.
After trying on the jacket, I felt like the side seams were a bit too far to the back, it felt awkward using the pockets.  I took out the back seam and stitched it at a scant 3/8", that gave a bit more to the side seams and it felt much better.

I also made one more change (no pictures), the length.  Meredith and I decided the longer length looked a bit overwhelming with all the pattern and it just didn't look right.  I cut it off to the View A length, I think a better look for me and for this fabric
Source - Vogue Patterns

So far so good, now collar time.  This pattern does have a separate under collar pattern cut on the bias.  Nice feature and helps the collar shape nicely.

Here is the collar attached, I love how it matches with the jacket, I think a happy accident for me.  I matched the center back seam and all the rest fell into place. Gotta love that.

Last for this post is the sleeve seam, this Vogue pattern has a 2-piece sleeve, this section is eased then edgestitched and topstitched.

I am so enjoying this process, it is actually a good thing my serger broke and had to go to the shop.  If it wasn't for that, I would have kept putting off this jacket, so the silver lining is a fabulous new jacket in a few days.  The temps might be too hot to wear it but it will be hanging in my closet ready and waiting.

Sunday, June 09, 2013

City Sampler Sewalong Blocks 4 to 6

I posted just over a week ago about participating in a quilt block sewalong.  Each week there are three blocks to be made, so here are my blocks 4 through 6.  

I am enjoying making these little blocks.  They take about 15 minutes each and are a fun to sew.  

Saturday, June 08, 2013

Spring Coat - Progress Report 2

I have made a little bit of progress on my jacket since Wednesday's post and I thought I would share a bit of my progress.  First, the book I am using to help improve my tailoring skills, The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket - Tailoring

Source: Barnes & Noble

One more step before I could sew, adding interfacing for shoulder reinforcement.  I used  Fashion Sewing Supply's Fusible Hair Cloth Canvas for this part

Next up, the most apprehensive part for me - BOUND BUTTONHOLES!  A few weeks ago, I purchased,  Did You Make That's The Bound Buttonhole e-book.  What an excellent resource to help me make these bound buttonholes.  I used all the steps and made two test buttonholes, which went together very smoothly with the help of the e-book.  There was only one problem, the fabric I had cut for the welts frayed like crazy.   What next? That was the question of the day.  My first thought was to used a contrast for the welts, a denim I used on my pink Burda pants.  I made another bound buttonhole with the pink and put the picture up on Instagram for a vote on which fabric.

Do you have a preference?  The self-fabric won on Instagram, so self-fabric it is.  One thing from the pink denim I learned is the fabric did not fray and that made the process much easier.  At the end of the 
e-book, Karen has other sources for bound buttonhole tutorials.  That started me looking for another method for the fraying fabric.  I went with Sara's from Colette Patterns

The main difference - Karen's e-book as two small pieces for the welts, Sara's uses a large bias-cut rectangle and you fold the lips.  The larger piece worked better for my fraying fabric.

 I did use all the markings from Karen's e-book, wanted to make sure the buttonholes were straight down the front and level.
 Another change, I sewed my buttonholes on the wrong side.  My fabric has so much texture and colors, my basting lines were very hard to see.  This worked well and here is a buttonhole, between the wording.  I am so pleased with the two buttonholes on the yoke piece.

Next I attached the lower front to the yoke and the lines vertically match so nicely (it did take 4 times!).  I maybe should of matched the horizontal lines but this is pretty darn good and I am very pleased.

Now I plan on doing the last two bound buttonholes on the lower front.  I wanted to get the two pieces seamed together so the spacing was equal between the upper and lower piece.  Maybe I will get to these tonight, we will see as grandson is coming to spend the night.  His parents are having a get-away for their anniversary.  All four of us (hubby, twins and I) are so excited, I think the little guy will get spoiled a bit!

Wednesday, June 05, 2013

Spring Coat - Progress Report 1

This project has moved from my cutting table to the cabinet to the counter top.  I have wanted to make it for 1-1/2 months but other things just kept getting ahead of my coat.  Now with no serger until June 13th, I thought it was the perfect time for a tailoring project.  Meet Vogue 8884 and this is the view I am using

source - Vogue Patterns

and  Mood Fabrics' Marc Jacobs linen and cotton woven is the fabric.  I adore this fabric.

I started cutting this coat a couple of nights ago.  I am cutting each pattern piece in a single layer, and straightening the fabric each time on my cutting table, like this picture:

The fabric is lightweight and I am underlining each piece with  Fashion Sewing Supply's Pro-Weft Supreme LIGHT-weight Fusible Interfacing, which on the website states, "ithe best weft-insertion interfacing available. This light weight interfacing is soft and supple with a brushed surface. Perfect for tailoring applications such as underlining and collar/lapel shaping...on light to medium-weight fabrics."  Perfect for my coat.

This morning before work I finished fusing on all the Pro-Weft and I am ready for my next step tonight.  I do need to point out, the Vogue pattern does have instructions for fusing tricot knit interfacing on every piece.

I am going to post in-progress posts on this jacket, since it will have several details throughout the process and then it will be my nest Mood Sewing Network post.

Now tell me is there a project you want to make but other projects inch their way in front?