Monday, June 10, 2013

Spring Coat - Progress Report 3

I have been working on Vogue 8884 and blogging about my progress and tailoring steps.  Check out Progress Report 1 and Progress Report 2 if you have missed these.

It starts with the roll line, I used some stiffer fusible interfacing for this step.

I carefully pinned the back seam and stitched it into place, thanks to my walking foot it matches nicely.

The back is complete, so it was time to add the back stay.  I used the completed back piece for my pattern guide, since this garment has a back yoke.  According to the Tailoring book, I drew a line 8" down the center neckline then curved it to 3" below the underarm.  I used muslin for the back stay.

Following The Classice Guide To Sewing the Perfect Jacket Tailoring  I cut seam tape the length of the front section and stitched in the middle.

Shoulder seams, check!  Now time for the side seams, which have the inset side pockets.
After trying on the jacket, I felt like the side seams were a bit too far to the back, it felt awkward using the pockets.  I took out the back seam and stitched it at a scant 3/8", that gave a bit more to the side seams and it felt much better.

I also made one more change (no pictures), the length.  Meredith and I decided the longer length looked a bit overwhelming with all the pattern and it just didn't look right.  I cut it off to the View A length, I think a better look for me and for this fabric
Source - Vogue Patterns

So far so good, now collar time.  This pattern does have a separate under collar pattern cut on the bias.  Nice feature and helps the collar shape nicely.

Here is the collar attached, I love how it matches with the jacket, I think a happy accident for me.  I matched the center back seam and all the rest fell into place. Gotta love that.

Last for this post is the sleeve seam, this Vogue pattern has a 2-piece sleeve, this section is eased then edgestitched and topstitched.

I am so enjoying this process, it is actually a good thing my serger broke and had to go to the shop.  If it wasn't for that, I would have kept putting off this jacket, so the silver lining is a fabulous new jacket in a few days.  The temps might be too hot to wear it but it will be hanging in my closet ready and waiting.


  1. It looks very beutiful, I really love the fabric!

  2. Your tailoring skills are really good. This coat is going to be a winner.

  3. Anonymous10:47 AM

    I think it will be beautiful!

  4. Lori, Thank you so much for sharing the construction details. I really appreciate your attention to details. The jacket is gorgeous and I'm sure you will receive a ton of compliments.

  5. All the tailoring details fascinate me. The skills are beyond my capabilities for sure, but your work is amazing.

  6. It's so beautiful. Thanks for your tutorial

  7. I always learn so much when I visit your blog. Your work is meticulous and inspiring and makes me feel I "can do it too" though I still have a lot to learn. This will be a beautiful jacket and can't wait to see it all complete.

  8. i have never added a roll line to a lapel, yet it seems to make such perfect sense! Great tutorials, always!

  9. I am very much enjoying following along with you on the making of your beautiful jacket. YOur tailoring is impecable, and will pay off in the end. I can't wait to see the finished product!

  10. Anonymous3:05 PM

    Your jacket posts are so fun! I love seeing how people construct tailored garments. Thanks for sharing your tips!