Saturday, December 14, 2013

Rigel Bomber - Last Construction Details

Last Friday, I posted about starting my Rigel Bomber jacket and on Sunday I posted about the welt pockets.

I asked Meg from Mood for advice on how to line this jacket and she referred me to her blog post and suggested to flatline the jacket.  That was a perfect suggestion and I used this Mood Fabrics' blue and black silk print


Here is the inside of the jacket.



 I had purchased bias tape to finish the seams. After some experimenting and taking into consideration this Papercut Pattern has 1 cm (3/8") seam allowances, I went with a 3-thread serged seam finish.



For the ribbing portions of this jacket, I purchased Antique Dark Blue Solid Ribbing on Mood Fabrics' Black Friday sale.  It arrived this past Tuesday, perfect timing for my jacket.


This ribbing has a vintage feel and I love how it looks with the wool denim but it doesn't have lycra and not much recovery.  With this is mind, I had to make some modifications to the pattern pieces for this ribbing.  I cut all the pieces a smaller and this helped to compensate for the lack of recovery.

I still wasn't happy with the bottom of the jacket, it needed some weight  and the ribbing was a bit loose.  On the way home from work, I had  that ah-ha moment and remembered Meg's use of elastic in the bottom ribbing of her bomber jacket.

I stitched a seam in the middle of my bottom band and has two casings for elastic and then I inserted two pieces of elastic as shown below.

Here is the bottom band with the elastic fully inserted

One last detail was the facing, I used my trusty clean finish technique


One more thing, I ordered the zipper for this jacket from Zipper Shipper and they will cut it to the size you need.


3 comments:

  1. Love the ribbing detail! Can't wait to see the finished jacket

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  2. Very interesting construction details.

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  3. Anonymous12:57 PM

    Ooh, what a great idea to add elastic to the ribbing! So smart! I can't wait to see the finished jacket!!!!!

    ReplyDelete