Coppelia Cardi - Papercut Patterns

I purchased some new patterns to jumpstart my sewing back in May.  The Coppelia Cardigan was one of those patterns .  I can say I love this pattern and need to make it again!

Stacker Jacket - Minerva Bull Denim

A solid fabric with my own embellishment were a great combination for this jacket, all the details are over at Minerva 

Style Maker Fabrics' Fall Style Tour 2020 - Outdoor Fun

Fall is here and in Missouri and we are having fall, cool, crisp mornings, warmer afternoons with a chill in the air for the evenings.  This change in the air is just the best and I am loving it, we usually go from 90 degrees to winter!  With this perfect fall weather in mind, my stop on the Style Maker Fabrics' Fall Style Tour is all about outdoor fun.

Sapporo Coat in Double Sided Fabric

Fall time which means I can make a new coat, I love making coats! 

Tuxedo Jacket and Silk Blouse

Summer means bright and fun colors but in reality  you just can't escape black and white and/or cream.  These two colors are classic and always show up in fashion, plus they just go with everything.   I wear the cream/white so much better than the black so I went with a cream heavy look with accents of black for these two garments.

Paper Cut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer

A few months ago, I ordered

  Paper Cut Patterns' Bellatrix Blazer

and it sat for a bit until I found some fabric.   The fabric found me, a sale email from Mood Fabrics  A lipstick red cotton sateen

Rigel Bomber Jacket - Metallic Tweed

Next up in my trio of garments, is the Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber
which I have made once before.

The fabric I used is Mood Fabrics' Bright Coral and Black Metallic Tweed and a mid-weight ponte.  I ordered two pontes and went with the lighter weight one of the two, it was the perfect color.  A bit off-black.

Wool Bomber Jacket

This gorgeous wool denim made its way to my house, Mood Fabrics' Italian Wool Denim to be exact.  

 The description is medium-weight good for boxy tops and jackets. I had it in mind for another project to mix with a wool plaid but these two fabric were not quite right for each other. After Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber, came out,

Rigel Bomber - Last Construction Details

Last Friday, I posted about starting my Rigel Bomber jacket and on Sunday I posted about the welt pockets.

I asked Meg from Mood for advice on how to line this jacket and she referred me to her blog post and suggested to flatline the jacket.  That was a perfect suggestion and I used this Mood Fabrics' blue and black silk print

Here is the inside of the jacket.

 I had purchased bias tape to finish the seams. After some experimenting and taking into consideration this Papercut Pattern has 1 cm (3/8") seam allowances, I went with a 3-thread serged seam finish.

Rigel Bomber - Welt Pockets and Inside

On this post, I described the fabric and Rigel Bomber, which is my current project.

This pattern has welt pockets in the front and this was the starting point of my sewing tonight.  Anyone else totally stress out when sewing welt pockets?  I have so much anxiety when making welt pockets, I just worry about making a mistake, which leads to the front being ruined, which leads to do I have enough fabric for another front piece.  Is it just me or do you have the same issues over welt pockets?

I am happy to report I did finish the two welts and they look wonderful.  Hurrah and deep breath, the rest of the jacket will seem like a piece of cake.

Here is one of my welt pockets

This fabric is hard to photograph and I lightened this photo.  One thing about this wool denim from Mood Fabrics, I am amazed how much it resembles denim: the look, feel and some of the fabric characteristics.


I didn't take any pictures of construction but here are some great tutorials
Tutorials of all kinds
or
Coletterie Anise Sew-Along

One thing I made sure to do with the welt pocket, is lots of basting and chalk marks for straight lines.

Some observations from this pattern and the welt pockets. I think the pockets could be a bit bigger, make it easier to construct the welt.  If you don't want to construct the welts, you could do a faux welt or leave them off all together.  

I will enjoy the pockets, a great place for keys but I wouldn't have to have them in this bomber jacket.  I think if I am limited on time, I would just do faux welt pockets.

After the welt pockets, were complete, I went onto constructing the jacket.  More information on that later.

Happy Sewing all.

Rigel Bomber

My next project for Mood Sewing Network is a Rigel Bomber by Papercut Patterns

And I am using this wonderful wool denim from Mood Fabrics

Here is the description, from Italy, a wool denim that's as soft as an old sweater.  Medium-weight.  We'd make this into boxy tops and jackets.