Friday, October 28, 2016

Simplicity 8084 - Polka Dot Fun


Simplicity 8084 shirt dress made with Mood Fabrics' rayon challis



   What do you do when fall doesn't come around?  Well, I am just going to keep sewing for the temperatures.  We are fluctuating from 60 degrees to mid-80 degrees, so I pulled out  Mood Fabrics' Navy Polka Dotted Rayon Challis and went to work on a great dress that I can wear now and later.  





Simplicity 8084 shirt dress made with Mood Fabrics' rayon challis


      I went with Simplicity 8084 for the dress and I am in love with this style.  I have found regular shirtdresses do not do much for my straight figure but with the drawstring waist and the blouson-type  top, this one really works.  My number one recommendation for this rayon challis fabric is to make sure you have a new needle.  Yes, I forgot to change my needle and I had a few thread pulls/runs at the seams.   I have to get in the habit new project = new needle!   This rayon challis has the best hand and drape, which is perfect for this pattern.  One other thing I need to point out, it is on sale!  Don't worry if the polka dots are not your style, check out the other Mood Fabric's rayon challis.

Simplicity 8084 shirt dress made with Mood Fabrics' rayon challis


    Let's talk pattern details and construction details.  The most important one is read carefully, this patterns moves from 5/8 seams to 3/8 seams.  Next, the length, I added  one inch to the length.  This may or may not be enough for you, just check your comfort level.  I really like the length of this one, the length fits the  style and is perfect for the warmer temps.    For comparison, I am 5'8" tall and almost always add an inch to all my patterns.  
Simplicity 8084 shirt dress made with Mood Fabrics' rayon challis


      The pattern only has one back yoke piece so I cut two yokes and finished the back yoke in the burrito method (tutorial here).  

Simplicity 8084 shirt dress made with Mood Fabrics' rayon challis



    The front of this dress had a beautiful covered placket and I loved this with the polka dots, no buttons to distract from the front.  A covered  placket is something I haven't sewn recently, so I folded and worked with the pattern piece until I had it figured out.  Another resource is the video tutorial for this dress made by the pattern designer, Mimi G, just check the pattern link above to find the tutorial.

Simplicity 8084 shirt dress made with Mood Fabrics' rayon challis


  Another thing I changed on the pattern is the drawstring.  which you cut two.  The pattern has you sew the two pieces together, sew 3/8" seam all around and leave an opening in the center then turn the drawstring through that opening.  I sewed the two pieces individually, turned each one and then sewed the raw ends together, overlapping a bit.  This is a very long drawstring and I found this to be very simple.  The seam is always going to be enclosed in the casing and it made the task much easier turning the shorter pieces.  I tied the other ends in a small knot, trimming the excess.


Simplicity 8084 shirt dress made with Mood Fabrics' rayon challis



    The sleeves have a 4 inch hem allowing for the cuff and button tab.  One thing with my challis, it would not hold the cuff, so I stitched in the ditch at the underarm seam.  This helped but my cuff still wanted to fall out.  I decided to unbutton the tab and stitch the cuff in place under the tab.  The tab hides this stitching line and my cuff stays in place nicely now. Mood Fabric's Rayon Challis polka dot made into Simplicity 8084 sleeve detail  



 I really enjoyed making this dress as it had some different features - the hidden placket, drawstring, curved hem, cuffed sleeves, which combined make a great looking dress.  One other tip, when sewing the casing in place make sure it is perfectly even on both sides of center front.   The dress will be good when fall arrives here in Missouri, I can throw on a denim jacket, maybe some tights/leggings and keep wearing this fabulous dress.  You might recognize this fabric, as  Sallieoh recently made a fabulous skirt, which is stunning.  

Simplicity 8084 shirt dress made with Mood Fabrics' rayon challis





      I just want to say..... Happy Fall Y'all!


Simplicity 8084 shirt dress made with Mood Fabrics' rayon challis



Disclosure - I receive a monthly fabric allowance from Mood Fabrics to make a garment.  These garment are blogged at Mood Sewing Network first and then I will blog here about this garment.


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14 comments:

  1. Super cute! I'm waiting the arrival of a navy and white polka dot ITY, just love the look.

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    1. Thanks, Coco, your knit will be beautiful.

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  2. This dress is so stylish & looks fun to wear . Thanks for all the details on how you made this great dress !

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    1. Thanks Mary Ellen, I so love this dress.

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  3. Lori - what a cute and wearable dress! You did a great job and it looks great on you - win win!!

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    1. Thanks, Maris, I appreciate the kind words.

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  4. I really like the look of this dress on you! Pretty fabric.

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    1. Thanks, Linda, I am so happy I have found a shirt dress style which works.

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  5. OH...LOVE this dress Lori! Love the polka dots, the pattern, and the sewing tips.

    I too can totally see this styled for fall with denim and tights. Yep...it's a winner!

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    1. Thanks, I wore it to church yesterday with a jean jacket. Thanks so much.

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  6. Cute dress, Lori! Thanks for sharing the sewing details. I love that your pup-pup also thinks the dress is nice! (Hahaa) Happy sewing.

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    1. Thanks so much, yes, Junior is always around for photo bombing! LOL

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