Friday, March 22, 2013

Burda Jacket - Mood Poplin Fabric Part 1

On Sunday, I started a BWOF jacket for my next Mood Sewing Network project, my intent is 2 posts a month at Mood's site.


The fabric I selected was Mustard Solid Poplin, which was intended for a skirt with this Navy stripe jersey for the top.  I was thinking this look:
from PInterest

I am still planning the navy-white top from Renfrew top but the mustard poplin wants to be something else.  As stated on Mood's site, this is a lightweight fabric but with a finish that made me think of outerwear.

I went through all my patterns, then my Ottobre for Women, then my BWOF collection.  Meredith was helping me to decide which one was the best and we settled on this jacket it  BWOF 6/2006 #104


The fabric has a vertical stretch, so I folded it and cut my jacket so the stretch was going around the body.

I stitched the pockets but one of them turned out to be a different size, darn those exact seam allowance.  My solution, to take the best looking finished pocket and placed in on some extra fabric and traced around the pocket.


 That traced line was my stitching line, look closely as it is hard to see.



 Now I had two matched pockets.

My thoughts on this jacket was to mix prints a bit with the stripe top, the mustard jacket and then add some floral fabric to the  jacket.  As shown online, in magazines, runways and fashion collections,  floral prints are big.

I had some floral in my stash and wanted just a bit on my jacket, piping seemed to be the answer, a bit on the pocket flap.



Here is the finished pocket.

I discovered something else, no picture but here it is.  I wanted the angled buttonholes to be the same on both flaps.  I stitched the buttonholes in one flap, then I placed the two flaps RST and pressed them, leaving the buttonhole indention on the flap.  This showed me the exact spot to sew the buttonholes.

The jacket is unlined, so I did the facings like this, stitch the long edge with right side of facing and right side of interfacing together.  Then turn the interfacing to wrong side and press, this makes a nice clean edge.


 My last photo, since this fabric is so stretchy, I added a small width of interfacing to stabilize the hem


I have to finish the sleeves, cuffs and buttonholes, my plans for tomorrow.


24 comments:

  1. What a great tip about getting the buttonholes to match. Love the floral piping! g

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    1. Thanks, I wish I had thought of it sooner, I would have had better pocket flaps all along!

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  2. Great color for your new jacket!

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  3. I like the printed bias you added to the jacket, a cute detail with such a fun colour for a jacket!

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    1. Thanks, Bri, the floral worked well with the mustard.

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  4. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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    1. Here is Caffy's comment. I hit delete instead of reply. Sorry Caffy.


      Really looks good! I am a piping experimenter RIGHT NOW... so I am thrilled to see what you've done here! My creation will be on my lickle blog later, if you'd like to look... maybe?! http://www.bundana.blogspot.co.uk

      Bundana x

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    2. I will take a look, Caffy. Thanks.

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  5. You make such great things. Not sure if mustard is a good color for me, but I've been hankering for it since fall. Can't wait to see your new jacket Lori!

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    1. Thanks, Faye, I was a little worried about the mustard on me but it looks fine.

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  6. Gorgeous color! Looking forward to seeing this jacket!

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    1. Thanks, Ginger, it will be on Mood this Tuesday.

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  7. Oooh, great tips! Thanks!

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    1. Welcome and I made the Renfrew yesterday, thought of your fitting options. I cut a straight 10 and it worked much better for me. Thanks.

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  8. I can't wait to see this jacket finished. Thanks for the tip with the buttonholes. I love the knit you picked out for the top. I can't wait to see that either.

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    1. Thanks, Andrea, it is a fun jacket. Spring please come so I can wear it!

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  9. Can't wait to see the final look. Loved your personal touches to it especially the piping. That won't overwhelm. And great tip on matching the buttonholes!

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    1. Thanks, that is what I was thinking, just a touch of floral.

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  10. Love the flower piping on the pockets! can't wait to see the finished pics.

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    1. Thanks, Joen, the jacket should be up on the Mood site on Tuesday.

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  11. Nice...brilliant idea for the buttonhole placement!

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    1. Thanks, Lynne, every once in a while I get a good idea :).

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  12. I'm a big fan of piping and your piping is smashing.

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