Tuesday, February 27, 2018

Nikko Dress - Waffle Knit from Mood

True Bias Nikko Dress made in Mood Fabrics' Waffle knit

  Have you been watching the Olympics? I have a bit and that got me thinking, knit fabrics are a bit like the gold in the sewing world, or at least to me.

 This transition period in fashion, moving from winter to spring, is always hard for me. I am not ready to stop sewing winter garments and don't know for sure what I want to sew for spring. So for my first garment for this post, I went with a new release pattern, True Bias Nikko Dress and used this Mood Fabrics' waffle knit. I love this fabric and it was great to sew, note it does have quite a bit of stretch.  

True Bias Nikko Dress made in Mood Fabrics' Waffle knit

    It seems that when I sew a knit garment, it is usually a winner and I am usually very happy with the garment. Now that isn't saying I don't have some sewing fails with knits, in fact I did last week, a great big fail. Sewing fails are just part of it and I just jump right back and try again.

True Bias Nikko Dress made in Mood Fabrics' Waffle knit

  Somethings I do to make sewing with knits to help achieve success and they are the gold are look at the finished garment measurements, make sure I have a knit that has the right amount of stretch for the garment. Many patterns give you that measurement of stretch
  • Stabilize the shoulders to prevent sagging.
  • Use the right type of needle if using a sewing machine - jersey or ball point or stretch. Test with a scrap of fabric
  • If using a serger, which is what I use the most, then test some scraps. See if you need to adjust the differential. Make sure you do the same adjustment if you use a coverstitch machine.
  • Lift and press the seams and the hems. Don't move your iron around on your project, it might cause stretching.
  • Stabilize your hem with some knit interfacing, stretch going with the stretch of your fabric. This especially helps when you use a twin needle for hemming. This bit of interfacing keeps the twin needle from tunneling or making that raised look on the stitching.
Those are just a few tips, but some I try to use each time I work with knits. I really love the differential feature on my serger. Now this Nikko dress is form fitting and tha

True Bias Nikko Dress made in Mood Fabrics' Waffle knit- side view

t scared me a bit. I looked at the finished measurements and went with a size 14. After sewing up the side seams, it was too big, quite a bit in the bust, some in the waist and about and inch on each side in the hips. I do think some of this is from the extra stretch of the knit. I made the adjustments to the side seam and I did take some in at the shoulder seam, too. I really need to take more in the next time at the waist, it is pretty full through the waist, but this is an area that is really for your comfort level. My thought is always, how much to I want it clinging to my middle? I do think with every knit, it can vary, so always do a trial fit before you do the sleeve binding and the hem.
  This dress will be great with a jacket or I saw it on IG with a Blackwood Cardigan, oh, now I need one to go with this dress! What color should I make? It just can't be black, that isn't my color.

True Bias Nikko Dress made in Mood Fabrics' Waffle knit - with jacket

  And here is the back view

True Bias Nikko Dress made in Mood Fabrics' Waffle knit

I have made the Nikko in the long sleeve top version and will get photos soon

Disclosure - I receive a monthly fabric allowance from Mood Fabrics to make a garment.  This garment is blogged at Mood Sewing Network first and then I will blog here about this garment.


  1. Such a cute dress and it looks great with the denim jacket.

  2. Oh, I really love this on you Lori! It really suits you and I love that its red and white. Styled with the denim jacket is really cool.

  3. A perfect dress for the transitional season!