Another new coat for me and it is so fun!
This is Grainline Studio's Cascade Duffle Coat and the fabric is Sewing Studio's Wine Corduroy My idea for this jacket was corduroy for a vintage look with the tan toggles.
Check out all the other Corduroys available
This pattern is one I have had for a couple of years and just thought it was too time consuming to make. Now don't get me wrong, it is time consuming but it is a fun sew and a joy to sew. I loved every step of the construction. Grainline Studio patterns, run large, I make a size 6 in all their patterns. I used the shorter version, but added 2.5 inches to the length. I also added 1 inch to the sleeve length, too.
The pockets are really just more for looks, they are high and really aren't good to use.
There is a sew along if you are interested in making this coat.
My corduroy was a dream to sew and I love how easy it was to sew. I did use a press cloth and most of the time, I used steam and my hand to press seams open, turn edges, etc.
Karleen, owner of Sewing Studio, sent me the fabric and two choices of lining. I loved both linings and on Instagram asked which I should use. It was overwhelming the floral - Satin Charmeuse Print, which I did use for the inside
I did tack the hem band, Sew Manju and Miss Celie Pants, thanks to their comments on my Instagram post
The details included on this pattern are incredible, the hem facing, sleeve facing, front band, collar, yoke, etc.
Here are several of the design features
A link to the solid lining, Siam Crush
I used the other lining choice for the pocket lining and the zipper band. I wanted the solid for the contrast with corduroy. I also thought this would look better with whatever top I was wearing.
One thing I might do differently if I make the shorter version again, would be to eliminate the zipper. While I did the photo edits, it occurred to me that this would work perfectly without a zipper. The toggles would hold the coat closed and open would look great without the zipper.
The zipper band (lining)does show a bit
But it is a pretty lining to show!
One more change, cut the lining of the pocket smaller in the width. That would help pull the fashion fabric to the inside.
The wind and cold was brutal when I took these photos
I had to grab my gloves and hold back my hair!
I did one post on the construction and did several Instagram posts on my sewing progress.
Disclaimer - Thanks to Karleen of Sewing Studio for the corduroy and lining fabric. The opinions are mine.
You do such beautiful work Lori & this is no exception! Looks wonderful!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Rosalind, I love this jacket, the fabric and the toggles make it so unique (in my opinion!)
DeleteIt is a beautiful coat and you've made the most of the beautiful details. Gorgeous. One thing I learned in a tailoring class a million years ago was to cut the linings/facings of things like pockets or undercollars just a mere one-eighth of an inch smaller. This is just enough to compensate for the turn of cloth by drawing in the fashion fabric a tiny bit, so there is no facing show through. It requires some careful measuring/cutting, but it really does work.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tip, AJW, I will remember this for future projects.
DeleteYour coat is gorgeous. I love the color and those toggles really add some great visual interest.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Tomasa, it is a fun pattern to make
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