My pattern is Closet Case Patterns' Ginger Jeans and I have made these jeans so many times and I like each of them but I love these.
Let's talk about this great denim, it has the perfect amount of stretch and I do think it is truly the first time I have made a pair of Ginger Jeans with the right amount of stretch. Unfortunately, I think this denim is sold out but Michelle has an entire category of denim and twill
The fit of the back is pretty good, I might try to fold out a bit of the pattern just below the butt, but all in all the fit is good.
With my first pair, I added an inch to the rise and made the waistband wider by sewing smaller seam allowances. I have always liked this change but in the future I think I will return to the pattern seam allowance for the waistband.
Here is a close up of the front of the pants and the embroidery, which we will talk about in a bit.
One thing with this pair, I really worked on the fit. I basted the seams, tried them on, then stitched the side seams. The waistband was put on in stages and then I worked on the fit. By adding that inch to the rise, I needed to really work on getting the waistband to fit. I have changed the waistband to have a center back seam. My center back seam is at a significant angle to get the waistband to fit me and not gap. I finally got it right this time. I did interface the waistband with a non stretch fusible and that helps the fit, too
Oh yes, one more change, I tapered from the knee down to get more fitted look.
I don't love this top with my jeans but it was the best I had until I make another one or find one in RTW I like better. I do have a top cut out in a peach fabric, so we will see.
Just before I hemmed the jeans, I tried them on one more time. I had just a bit extra fabric at the lower hip, just below the side topstitching. I took the jeans in about another 3/8" and tapered to nothing, this helped quite a bit. Another change was to shorten the left pocket bag. Since the jeans are tighter and a thinner stretch denim I could not get the pocket bottom not to show an imprint on my jeans. I even used my pinking shears but that line was right there. I made the pocket so short, the bottom fits at the bend of my hip. No more show through. The pocket under the embroidery is long but I think the embroidery helps to hide the line.
Plus I liked how these two designs how very similar outline stitching.
I did some edits in my embroidery software and isolated parts of the two designs for the full design. Truthfully, this was the first time I really spent some time learning some of the features in the software. I enjoyed it and I am sure I will be using it more often.
I was going to put on rivets but changed my mind and went with one of the many different stitches on my machine. I just used it on the coin pocket but isn't it fun?
To add more interest, I went with two different colors of thread for all the topstitching. The blue is a traditional constructing thread and the orange is a Sulky embroidery thread. I used a triple stitch so the topstitching would be a bit more visible since I was not using thicker topstitching thread.
One more thing to point out - the construction thread it the one that is on the edge of all the pockets. My thought was the Sulky was too thin to really hold the pockets into place.
I am so very happy how these turned out and already planning more embroidery!