Saturday, September 14, 2013

Archer Shirt Details- Plaid fabric

I have been working away on my two new Archer Shirts from Mood Fabrics.

All the photos are from the construction of the Mood Fabrics' cotton voile

I had every intention of using the chevron method posted in my previous post but did wonder if it would work.  Well, it did not.

See that beautiful totally un-matched plaid.  I could have tried again but didn't really want to waste any more fabric.  You see I have lots of bias to cut out and I didn't feel I could waste any more fabric.

Scratch that plan for the yoke, I will try it again when I am working with stripes.

Take a look at that picture above one more time.......see my voile is thin, in fact, one of the thinner ones I have ever sewn.  So I took some more steps for some of my construction.

First, let's start with the bias front band, I used Pro sheer Elegance Light interfacing for my lightweight cotton.  The instructions indicated only to interface part of the band, but since it was so ligthweight I did the entire band.  As you can see in the picture, I used bias for the front button band.

Now to the pocket, this was interfaced too.  The bias on this thin fabric was very stretchy and unstable.  It needed interfaced to stabilize it and I didn't want the front plaid to show through the pocket.  

This picture of the pocket is after I have turned down the top of the pocket.

I did notice even with extra care with these bias pieces and the interfacing, the pieces still stretched.  After I applied the interfacing, I would lay the pattern piece on the pocket (or whatever piece) and true it up.


I think the pocket looks great and not "see-through" to the shirt itself

Last picture it the back yoke with bias.  I did interface this also.  

Check out this shirt and my linen Archer shirt on Tuesday over at Mood Sewing Network

Sorry I have been pretty absent from the blog this week.  Work was busy earlier this week and later in the week, I have had much more time to sew and taken full advantage of this time.


  1. Lovely Shirt, Lori!

    (about my bias tutorial...I APOLOGIZE! I should have added that when using this method with a plaid one needs to pick the most dominant "stripe" of the plaid to use as the "match-points". In this case, the easiest "stripes" in your plaid to use would be the black, and it does seem that you did indeed use that "stripe"....BUT...the method I describe becomes a bit more complicated and an extra step is needed when the plaid (or check) is not a perfect square. I will post a new tutorial soon about using the method with plaids and checks ;)

    1. No problem at all Pam, I knew I wasn't doing it quite right. If I had more fabric, I would have tried again. I look forward to your tutorial, as all of your tutorials. Look at the buttons on both of these shirts (post on Mood on Tuesday) here on Wednesday - they are from you!

  2. Anonymous11:48 AM

    Hi Lori, I am about to cut out my first archer shirt...are the seam allowances included? All it says in the instructions is the seams are 1/2 inch...Thanks so much!

    1. I emailed you, Kathy but thought I better answer here, yes they are included.

  3. Anonymous11:48 AM

    This comment has been removed by the author.

  4. Looks like the shirt is coming along great :)

    1. Thanks, Zoe, I wore my linen shirt today, love it!

  5. I just love plaid fabric. This looks like its coming along nicely!

  6. Looking good, Lori! Sewing a plaid Archer shirt is on my list...... can't wait to see the completed shirt!

  7. Looking great, thanks for the interfacing tips!