Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Butterick 5997- Red Challis Rayon

I wanted a blouse, pullover style, interesting front slit, some beautiful details, shirttail hem and maybe a roll-up sleeve.  Well, I found that combination in Butterick 5997, specifically View A with a collar.
Butterick 5997 in red challis rayon from Style Makers Fabric

This is a nice pattern but you will need to make some changes and I will get to that later.   I do believe what makes this pattern so very wonderful is the Rayon Challis fabric.
This fabulous fabric came from Style Makers and it feels wonderful and stitched up perfectly for this top.

Now let's start with some issues with this pattern. First off the sleeves, look like a pirate's sleeve,  Idle Fancy really talked about the awful sleeves, check out her post.

I set in the sleeves and tried the shirt on it was very comical, puffy sleeves with way too much puff.  I couldn't believe it and my daughter said this is not a good look.  So off came the sleeves and I took quite a bit off the sleeve cap.  Also, the shoulders were a bit too wide, so some width was removed.

I do love the gathers at the front yoke

Ant the rolled up sleeve with tab. which is sewn onto the outside of the sleeve and then handstitched to the inside

The fabric doesn't have alot of body, so I interfaced  the collar, the under collar and the collar bands with Fashion Sewing Supply Tricot interfacing.. This really made the collar perfect

One more thing about this pattern, take a look at these pattern pieces.  Piece 1 is for the front of View A and B and then Piece 3 is the back for View A B C D

Now am I looking at this wrong?  The notches line up and the lengthen/shorten line matches but look at the hem

Not the same length, right? I do think they are suppose to match and make a nice shirttail hem on the side seams.  This means a bit of adjusting too.

I love this blouse and I will wear and wear this top.  It feels and looks great.  Gorgeous cut of the blouse in the back, too

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  1. Beautiful shirt! I would love to know what Butterick has to say about those pattern pieces. It's a little comforting to know that I am not the only one who has encountered similar situations - my first response is always "what did I do wrong?" It seems that sometimes it is just the pattern that is wrong! Nice job, and such pretty fabric - thanks for the new fabric resource, too!

  2. I agree - I would have looked at the pattern pieces as what did I do wrong ? But then it can be a chance to use some of those geometry skills my dad always said I'd use in real life - 😍
    You have a great knack for matching fabric type & pattern ? How do you make your choices ? Thanks

  3. Your new shirt looks great! I'm sure that you will get lots of wear with this one.

  4. When you said pirate sleeve all I thought of was the puffy shirt my Seinfeld!LOL Your changes look great! I am sure you will wear this shirt often.

  5. I love the design of this new shirt! What a great job! I don't think I would have had the patience you did with the pattern.

  6. You've done a lovely job with this pattern Lori. I do wonder though, why do we put up with the poor pattern drafting we see in so many commercial patterns. They don't deserve our business! I have found one pattern maker whose patterns always fit - Connie Crawford. Connie's patterns fit everyone. These days I just use one of Connie's patterns as a base and then add the details I like from other patterns. Much quicker process and more time to enjoy my sewing