Sunday, April 21, 2013

White/Black Cotton Voille Shirt

I have been working on my next Mood Sewing Network garment, I am using this black/white voille and Archer Shirt from Grainline Studios

I love this combination and here are some photos of parts of the shirt:

Collar and stand.  I used quilting cotton for the facing of these.  The dots are raised and I felt using self-fabric would be too thick in these areas.  I am quite pleased with my decision.  A note about this collar, it is the best laying collar I have made.  Much of this is due to the under collar cut on the bias with a seam down the middle.

Cuff, love the detail.



A few days ago, I put a picture of the pocket on Instagram.  I was deciding about running the polka dots horizontal or vertical - the comments were for vertical with piping or bias binding.  I had both in my stash and decided on the piping.



I lined the pocket with quilting cotton. Nice way to finish the top edge and it kept the dots from showing through on the pocket.







Here is an inside view of the collar band and the yoke.


I am so pleased with this pattern but there are few things I will do differently:

  • Make a smaller size, at least one size in the shoulders and bust and 2 sizes in the waist and hips.  I took this in so much in the waist and hips. 
  •  Also, I would go down in the sleeves and cuff.  My cuffs are so loose, I might add another button but would loose the nice detail on the cuff edge
  • I added 1" to the sleeves and body.  I cut that off on the body but was too late on the sleeves.  They are plenty long.  I will eliminate this next time.
Suggestions for this fabric:
  • Use another fabric for facings
  • A walking foot would help with the texture of the fabric.  I do not have a walking foot but part of me thinks my feed dogs are not working properly.  The fabric isn't feeding the best. Might be time for a new machine?  I have been using this one for 15+ years and I know I have many hours of use in it.  I would love a new machine - we will have to see.

Look for the complete blouse with a pair of chinos from rose denim on April 24th on the Mood Sewing Network.

28 comments:

  1. Very nice shirt! You did a very professional job on the collar and cuffs. I always enjoy seeing your projects.

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    1. Thanks, Donna, I love this pattern.

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  2. I have had good luck with the Archer pattern myself. I have made 4 of them in the last 2 weeks. I took 1 1/2" off the sleeve length and also made the cuff smaller. My measurements exactly matched size 6 and it fits perfect. It is a much looser fitting shirt. I made 2 shirts with the back ruffle and cut the ruffle one size smaller in width so as not to have too much fullness back there. It worked out perfect. I love your black and white fabric.

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    1. Thanks for the information on this shirt, I appreciate your input.

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  3. Very nice shirt!

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  4. This looks beautiful and crisp! Great idea not to use the fabric for facings - and the pockets add a neat designer touch - you have a great eye for detail ... J

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    1. Thanks, Judith, I am so happy with the results.

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  5. Beautiful shirt! Love the piping on the pocket.

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    1. Thanks, Cindy, I like the look of piping and sure have been using it alot lately.

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  6. What a perfect polkadot blouse Lori!

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  7. This is a lovely blouse and your attention to detail has certainly paid off. Love the fabric and the contrast piping.

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    1. Thank you, Sarah, it is such nice fabric.

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  8. I was taken a back by every piece of detailing you did. Each piece is so beautiful to look at.
    Gorgeous. Simply gorgeous.

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    1. Oh, thank you so much, that means so much.

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  9. You know I love a good shirt...and this one is absolutely gorgeous! You never fail to inspire me.

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    1. Thanks, Pam, that means a great deal from the Master of Shirt construction and details!

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  10. That is a great blouse. I'm contemplating buying this one, plus I like her shorts pattern. Great ideas on the facings. That is definitely something to remember when sewing with textured or white fabric. Can't wait to see the finished product.

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    1. Thanks, Amy, you will love the pattern!

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  11. Can't wait to see the complete outfit!

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    1. Wednesday it will be on Mood Sewing Network, thanks, Kay.

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  12. So, I have experienced that fabric and that pattern but not together. I loved the fabric but my sewing machine did not...I ended up with a wadder that I converted into a skirt for my DD. I had a great time sewing the Archer pattern until there was a mishap while topstitching the collar. Now after a new collar and collar stand I am quite pleased with my finished shirt. Yours is quite lovely and the details are remarkable.

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    1. My machine didn't love the fabric either, I think a walking foot would have helped. My daughter and I think my feed dogs are giving out, she sewed a quilt on it the other day and had a time getting it to go. So happy you were able to do another collar and stand for your Archer.

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  14. The shirt is beautiful! I love the polka dots. You keep me sewing inspired!

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  15. Crazy about the polka dots, and good call on using a different facing fabric. I always like a bias cut collar stand. You're right...I think it makes the whole thing settle better.

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  16. This looks lovely! You've really handled this beautifully-- the piping and pocket lining are such professional touches! Looking forward to the full reveal!

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