Tuesday, February 24, 2009

McCall's 5815

First I want to thank these two books for all the information I used to make this jacket.

Next the pattern
Pattern Description: Misses' lined jackets, semi-fitted, lined jackets. Shawl collar variations, princess seams, drapey patch pockets and shaped hemline. Sleeve variations, too Pattern
Pattern Sizing:4 to 20
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Very much like view B.
Were the instructions easy to follow?The instructions were very good. I wanted to really use some couture type techniques on this jacket. I used Claire Schaeffer's High-Fashion Sewing Secrets and Couture Sewing Secrets. After seeing so many wonderful jackets on Pattern Review and blogs, that used these books, I was inspired to give it a try.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I like the shape of the jacket, such a wonderful silhouette. Also, the collar drew me to this pattern right away.
Fabric Used:A wool from stash, I purchased to 2 years ago from Fabric Mart
Now the changes, most were due to the reading in the two books and my desire to use these teachniques.
I interfaced the jacket according to the instructions in High-Fashion Sewing Secrets. I used a knit fusible interfacing as suggested in the book. Here is the front piece with the dart cut out of the interfacing as instructed in the book. The interfacing is from Sew Exciting

The back is interfaced 2-1/2" down from the bottom of the armscye with sew-in interfacing. She suggests hair canvas, muslin, wigan, or Armo Press Soft. I only had muslin, so that is what I selected. Also, cut fusible knit interfacing 6" down from the neckline. This is fused onto the muslin, then the two are basted on the back. I also added a strip 2-1/2" wide at the hems. This is from fusible, but High-Fashion Sewing Secrets suggests bias sew-in interfacing. I tested the fusible and did not get a line in the front of the fabric. Pinking the edge would help with the line, too. Here is a picture of center back piece After finishing this jacket, I was reading more in some back issues of Threads. A picture showed the muslin cut out the after you stitch the center back seam. I will do this next time.

The pocket was unlined, so I cut out a lining and attached to the seam.

I left an opening in the seam for turning it right side out. The pocket is on the bias and I cut the lining on straight of grain. This was a mistake, I should of cut the lining on the bias, too, my pocket isn't as drapey as the pattern envelope.

I assembled the jacket as the pattern instructed for most of the remainder of the instructions. The next change was on sleeve heads. I find Sigrid's tutorial site an invaluable resource for finding tutorials on the web. I used Belinda's tutorial for the sleeve head and wow, does this make such a difference in the jacket. Thank you, Belinda and Sigrid. Also, Tany at Couture et Tricot for all her wonderful blog posts, full of instruction, photographs and tutorials. I have learned so much through her garments.

Finally,in High-Fashion Sewing Secrets, it states how to make lining adjustments. This is so the lining will not flatten the armscye seam

Next, my first ever bound buttonhole. I need to work on these more, but I am pretty pleased for my first time. I used the instructions from High-Fashion Sewing Secrets along with the tutorials for bound buttonholes on Sigrid's site to help. The photographs were wonderful and easier for this visual learner.

The instructions have you sew in the lining before attaching the sleeve lining. Then the sleeve lining is handstitched in place. I sewed the entire lining as I did the jacket and then handstitched the hems.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I am not sure I will sew this exact jacket again. The sleeves have a seam down the center so you can sew the slit easier. Also, they are full sleeves. I do love the fit and shape of this jacket, I am going to check out the McCall's pattern book for another jacket with similar lines and more traditional sleeves. I think others would really like the style and the fit.

Conclusion: Well, you win an award for reading this long post. Speaking of reading, I should have been reading all these books I have been buying. By spending a bit of time reading and learning, my jacket was greatly improved. Great pattern, great jacket which I adore. I am so happy with the end results. I would appreciate any comments on what I have done, let me know if I should have done things differently during the construction of this jacket. I am trying to improve my skills and learn to take my time while making a garment.

The princess seam and dart. (Still trying to master my new point and shoot camera features)

The collar, it has a tuck at the center back. Also, the collar is cut on the bias and the pattern has a seperate piece for upper and lower collars.

The finished jacket. The arms look very long, don't they? When I wear the jacket, they are the perfect length. I will get pictures wearing the garment. You don't get to see pictures of the back of the garment, my dressforms shoulders do not fill out the jacket and it looks terrible in the picture!


  1. Hi seen your jacket on PatternReview. Thought I would drop in and see all your sewing projects. Love all your projects you done a great job on that jacket. Very cute.:)

  2. Wow. I don't have any technical comments to add, but what a beautiful jacket. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of it on you.

  3. Anonymous5:21 AM

    I found your post very helpful! Thanks for all the info. I have the pattern and love the sleeve and collar.

  4. I know the two books cited were a big help in constructing this beautiful jacket. Isn't it amazing what is left out of most pattern instructions?

  5. Anonymous8:56 AM

    It looks fantastic. What a cute jacket! Great work.

  6. Lori this is an incredible jacket! All your extra details with the interfacing, etc, really up the quality quotient. You must feel so good wearing this. I can't wait to see it on you.

  7. Nice work, Lori! I want to see photos of you modeling it, of course. Pretty color.

  8. Nice job! I really like the color you chose, too. I have that second book, so I'll make sure to bust it out when I go to sew a jacket. I have material and patterns...I just don't have the "want to" to spend that much time on a clothing piece right now.

  9. This turned out to be very lovely. Your hard work paid off!

  10. It looks great! Wow!! What an amazing jacket! You done good!

  11. How cute! And what a professional job you did on completing all of the details! I love to read my sewing books too--but don't always take the step of applying what I've read.

    Lynda in LV

  12. Nice!! Looking forward to seeing it on you.

  13. Great looking jacket. And I love the two books you mention too. Only yesterday evening I used the first one to make a notched collar. One of the best books in my sewing library.

  14. Anonymous6:55 AM

    Oh, I love that jacket! The pattern looks mighty cute and your jacket has convinced me that I NEED IT! Great work!

  15. Lori, the jacket is STUNNING!! You really outdone yourself! I love everything about it, the fabric is lovely and the collar is so fabulous! Very well done!

  16. Anonymous2:34 AM

    Same as Tany I love the collar
    You've done a great job and it even looks better when you are modelling it. BTW I agree with for the pockets, lining should have been cut in the biais