Thursday, September 26, 2019

Vogue 1643


I have had the best month as the Takeover host over at Sew Your View 



The link will explain Sew Your view but it all happens over on Instagram @sewyourview.  I have been hosting the sewalong for September's pattern, Vogue 1643, this amazing jacket. During the month I have been doing Instagram stories.  These stories include inspiration, fabric information, construction details and how to style it.  I had help along the way, Carlos of Vogue Patterns provided ribbon detail pictures, fabric recommendation and help with buttonholes.  Thank you Carlos, I really appreciate it.


You need to make this pattern, it is just so good!  It isn't quick, a full lining, lots of ribbon sewing and then testing the buttonholes.  

The ribbon is two layers, one sewn on the other.  I did use steam-a-seam to fix the top layer in place and then used my edgestitch foot to do some even topstitching



The recommended fabric is wool  - blends, flannel, boucle, crepe.  Well, I have that for my second jacket, this one was my wearable muslin, my takeover practice run.  This fabric is a suiting from Joann's, which my Joann's had no wool. I know wool would have been the better choice, there is just more to wool and wool is amazing to sew.   The ribbon is Offray from Joann's and the only tricky part was the neckline, hard to get the ribbon to curve.  I used my ham, lots of steam and I did run a basting stitch to curve the neckline better.  I noticed after I put the facing on, trimmed and notched the collar, the ribbon curved even better.


You can see my basting stitches in this photo. 




This longer jacket takes 16 buttons in 7/8".  It is hard to buy that many buttons in store, so I ordered from Etsy but they were from China so didn't arrive in time.  My second order was Amazon and they did arrive in time.



Let's talk buttonholes, I did a test sample.  I used the suiting (outer band and lining band), a layer of interfacing and the two ribbons.  I tested several times for length and then with Fray Check before cutting.  My Pfaff Creative Icon stitched the buttonholes beautifully and I applied Fray Check to the test buttoholes.  After the Fray Check dried, I cut the buttonhole with my chisel.  With all the layers, there was still fraying and I didn't like the look. With this in mind,  I just stitched my buttonholes and did not cut them open.  I have no intention of buttoning this jacket. Look closely and you can see the stitched buttonholes.


I made a size 14 but will go down to a 12 next time, this one is just a bit big. My adjustments are a broad back adjustment and I added 1 inch to the body length and sleeve length.


The back view

I did add the shoulder pads per pattern instructions.  In addition I put in sleeve heads, the sleeve needed extra support.  The purpose is to support the sleeve cap in custom made garments like jackets and coats. From Sewing Divas....The sleeve head fills out the gap between the arm and the sleeve top and it helps to have a nice roll line in a high cap sleeve plus it also prevents to show the seam allowance from the right side



The lining is also from Joann's, I had to turn the iron down for this lining.


I styled this three ways as some of the inspiration I shared.  I really need a red or navy mock turtle to have another option, which might be the best.

First with just a navy tank, probably my least favorite but is an option



Another inspiration photo I shared was this jacket with a Gucci tee.  Well, I don't have a Gucci tee but I have a Girls in the Garden tee (from an Etsy shop)


Some of the other style photos I found were with button-up shirts. - a plaid with white background and a floral one.  I have lots of gingham but none like the style photo.  I went with chambray for a denim-on-denim look






This one was labor intensive and I am going to do a couple quick projects before I tackle my second jacket from navy wool boucle.  I am anxious to contrast and compare the two fabric types. I am sure the wool will be so much better for the jacket.



10 comments:

  1. It's really cute! I think it will be great for fall. I loved that pattern when I saw it come out and it's great to see it made up. Happy sewing!

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    1. Thanks, Natasha, it is a bit labor intensive but comes out so good. Vogue really hit a home run with this one.

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  2. Great jacket! Do you think Petersham ribbon would work better? Karen

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    1. Yes, it probably would, Karen, probably shape better. I just don't have access to that and wanted to see the colors in person.

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  3. Great jacket. Definitely a statement piece.

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    1. Thanks, Catherine, it is a great statement!

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  4. Outstanding and inspiring. Those intensive makes take some mental preparation for sure. But so worth it. Awesome make!

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    1. Thanks so much, and you are right, need to be in the right mind set to start this project but it is so worth it!

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  5. Very beautiful make. I can't imagine tackling a project this big but I admire those who do. Just beautiful.

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    1. Thank you, just one step at a time.!

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