Tuesday, September 11, 2018

McCall's 7818 - Green and White Seersucker


McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker

 The new trend in jackets is the oversized blazer and I couldn't wait for fall to make one!  My blazer will be perfect for the end of summer and I picked Mood Fabrics' Green Candy Striped Seersucker.  This fabric comes in several different colors and I loved working with this seersucker.




McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker



  My pattern for this oversized style is McCall's 7818 and it was great make with excellent instructions by Melissa Watson's.  I went with a size Medium.  The hardest part is right at the beginning, the two front welt pockets with the pocket flaps.  I went step by step but I did have to do some unsewing.  I went with straight grain for the welts but with this small stripe it was hard to keep my stripes straight.  Here is the inside of the pocket and you can see how it isn't the straightest welt pocket

 I had the welts done on one pocket and I just didn't like the look at all.  So I took out the top welt, cut some bias and tried again.  Much better welt pocket   I did have to make my pocket flaps larger than the pattern piece, the welt was bigger than the pocket flap.  I did not have enough fabric left, so part of the pocket bag was used for the flap.  After both of these welts were finished, one more was left, upper welt. upper welt pocket

 Once these three pockets were completed, the construction went a bit faster.  Here is the inside of my jacket and the back of the jacket
  inside of McCall's 7818 back stay on McCall's 7818
 This was also the first time I did handstitch my sleeves in as per the instructions sleeve lining

 I wanted to add something special for the inside and used my embroidery machine and software to make a monogram


McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker - monogram with Pfaff Creative Icon

Here is the software and how it looked on the screen for the Premier + 2 Embroidery Ultra.  There are so many options for font choices, layout and border.
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I did find out you don't use no-show mesh for a stabilizer in garments.  That stuff shrinks!  I finished my monogram and I like to use the steam on my iron to set seams and for my garments. Well, I added some steam and my poor monogram shrunk before my eyes, for a wrinkled mess!  I did have some extra lining fabric and cut the back again and did my monogram again.



  Here is the inside of the jacket
McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker - lining



McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker - lining

    The back vents

  back vent

 The instructions are excellent for the notch collar and this is the best results I have ever had.  I put in the buttonhole on the lapel but I did not cut it open.  I never realized you sew the notch at a convex curve and that helps make the notch perfect.

Here is a great notched collar tutorial and here is the tip from the pattern.  I couldn't find anything similar on the internet
from McCall's 7818 instruction sheet



  notched collar

 And then a view of the back vents and buttons on the sleeves.  This was the only issue I had with the pattern, the lining is all put in and then the instructions state to sew in the buttonholes.  Now note the buttonholes are decorative only, so I just stitched on the buttons.

  Mood Fabrics' seersucker used to make a boyfriend oversized jacket from McCall's 7818 - back


I hadn't sewn seersucker before but it stitched and pressed beautifully and I loved working with it.

McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker





  The jacket is fall release  and  recommended fabrics are  wool blends, wool crepe, crepe and sateen and all the links are to those type fabrics at Mood Fabrics.  I just love the look of the seersucker and with my graphic tee.

McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker



  I did have several hours in the construction of this jacket and I feel like it was a great make to learn new techniques.  I tried to take my time, use hand stitching when needed and really read pattern instructions!  Melissa has quick tips, pro tips and fit tips all throughout the pattern.  Do make sure you read all of these, it will make the finished garment even better!

McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker


    I did add one inch to the sleeves but I did not need to add any length at all, so my sleeves are a bit long but I don't mind, they are fun to have the longer length.  Also, fun to cuff the sleeves

McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker

  I did a bit of photo overload but there is lots going on with this jacket and I also love this so much!

McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker

  If you wanted to speed the construction up, the welts would be an option.  The pocket flaps could be stitched on for just the pocket looks.  Also, the upper welt could just have the flap stitched on, or eliminate this step.



McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker


    If you want a great pattern that is on-trend try this one and use a great Mood Fabrics' wool.


McCall's 7818 oversized blazer made in Mood Fabrics' seersucker


  In Missouri we have warm days and start to have cool nights - this jacket will be perfect for the end of summer and first of fall.

Now to my t-shirt, I thought it would be fun to get a graphic tee with my blog name.  So to Etsy I went and bought from this seller and this shirt .  The title says flowy and it is, I went with a Medium but wish I purchased a small, I will alter it to a smaller size.

7 comments:

  1. Your construction is always beautiful! Great make and love the T-shirt.

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  2. Gorgeous jacket! Looks great on. You had a lot of sewing going on with this and you achieved a great trendy jacket. Have not sewn with seersucker in years!

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  3. Great job! I'm wondering what you used for interfacing, does fusible present a problem with seersucker?

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  4. Such a great Spring/Fall/cold office or restaurant Summer jacket! I love seersucker in the summer, and this cool, pale green is just perfect. I've had KwikSew K3715 on my list to sew as a boyfriend-style jacket since early spring. You have given me the push I need to go ahead and cut a muslin. I figure I can't go wrong. Last year I followed your lead on the jacket in Vogue V9275 and it was my favorite make of the season. ;-)

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  5. Very nice! I made a seersucker blazer a few years ago and you are so right it is a breeze to sew with. Looks super cute on you although I don't know about the oversize trend - we saw that in another decade and I'm not sure I'm ready for it to return :)

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  6. So professional. Love the fit too.

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  7. Turned out great, so much detail - your pockets are sewn beautifully.

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