Wednesday, October 05, 2016

Simplicity 1066 - Construction Details

Simplicity 1066 made with Style Maker Fabrics' faux suede

Let's talk about the construction details on Simplicity 1066
The description for this pattern is
This Misses' lined jacket from Mimi G has a great fitted shape and features separate pattern pieces for B,C,D, and DD cup sizes. Jacket can be made with shoulder yoke and button front, or with pockets and belted waist. Watch this video tutorial and sew along with Mimi G!

Sizes 6 to 24.  

Simplicity 1066 made with Style Maker Fabrics' faux suede

I went with a size 14 and a C cup, which is an amazing feature on patterns.  I usually would make a size 12 for this pattern but have changed the sizing choices for jackets.  My main reason for the change, is I want it a bit bigger to layer, especially with fall.

One of the main features I liked with this Mimi G pattern, is all the front pattern pieces are numbered the same with a dash and then the cup size.  I have made patterns before that have different numbers for the various cup sizes and that gets confusing.

I added a back stay from a scrap piece of muslin but the interfacing is very complete.  The instructions have you interface the
side front, front facing, front, yokes, upper collar and under collar, which I thought was very thorough.

The instructions are very complete, with hints along the way and excellent illustrations.  The pattern even has you add fleece for sleeve heads.  I should of made mine just a bit longer, I feel like there is some wrinkles right where my fleece ends.
Simplicity 1066 made with Style Maker Fabrics' faux suede

I added one inch to the body and the sleeves.  I am fine with the body length but with this Simplicity pattern and my floral jacket the sleeves are still a bit shorter than I like.  I will add 1-1/2 inches to 2 inches next time.  Maybe go with 1-3/4!

The fabric I used is amazing Style Maker Fabrics' faux suede.  You can get it in several colors.  I always used a press cloth while working with this fabric and I was doing the final press when I forgot the press cloth.  I about passed out, it left a mark but the mark did disappear after I rubbed the fabric a bit.  Oh, my that was so close!  I did pin but used the pins in the seam allowance.  I really don't think the pins would have left a mark but I wasn't going to take a chance!

I didn't notice the back wasn't hanging properly at the vent until editing the photos.  I took a look at my jacket and I stitched the left back just above the vent a bit too far.  I caught a bit of the lining that should not of been caught.  I have corrected that and it hangs much better.

Simplicity 1066 made with Style Maker Fabrics' faux suede

Now the lining, I went with a gray in my stash and added the embroidered "L" to the top of the lining  I got the idea from Erica's jacket
Simplicity 1066 lining with piping and embroidery detail.

I really like to add piping (when I remember and don't get in too big of a hurry) and used some scraps from my blouse.  I keep some  Wright's extra prepackaged piping that is  and just cover it with my fabric.  If I have the right color I will just use that but in this case I did not. I always seem to buy the wrong size cording for my piping so this works nicely.  Plus it is 45 minutes for me to get to a Joann's, this way I have something on hand

Simplicity 1066 lining and piping

One more thing I liked was how the sleeve vents are constructed, a nice diagonal seam and a bit of folding some seams.  It was a bit like origami but worked perfectly.  Also, Mimi G has you sew the buttons on the vent without buttonholes.  I have made a jacket before with the buttonholes and boy is it hard to get that last buttonhole sewn by the top of the vent.  I am not going to do that again!  
Simpliticy 1066 sleeve vent

I wanted to share some of the construction details to give you a more complete picture of the jacket and thought a seperate blog post was needed.

One of the last things in the instructions " take the jacket to your favorite dry cleaner for a professional pressing before sewing on the buttons."  I do think my jacket could benefit from a professional pressing but boy am I nervous to take it to someone else and have this done.  I put to much work into it and I don't want to let it out of my sight!  What do you all think about this?  Are you comfortable with a professional pressing?  Is it hard to let your garments out of your sight?

Thanks all for all the comments on my blog and Instagram photo, I really appreciate it.  I am so proud of this entire outfit and it is a confidence booster when wearing it.

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  1. Beautiful jacket Lori. I've never had to take a tailored garment in to the cleaners. I'm pressing the entire time during construction. Even after I bag a lining, it only needs smoothing. Fabulous job, and your fabric picks were perfect!

  2. I have taken jackets for a final press, but only to a trusted dry cleaner. They are getting harder to find these days.

    For piping, years ago Barbara Emodi (Sewing on the Edge) suggested using acrylic yarn as piping, it doesn't shrink and is very flexible. And most of us have some lying around from various projects.

  3. No I don't think I could let that go to be pressed by someone else. Too precious. Such a professional jacket, you can tell you worked really hard on it.

  4. No I don't think I could let that go to be pressed by someone else. Too precious. Such a professional jacket, you can tell you worked really hard on it.

  5. The pressing at the dry cleaner was a tip my mom taught me when making blazers or coats. She said it gives it a more professional look, and of course she was right!LOL

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